Mese: gennaio 2020

Homo Faber, the crafts of art return to Venice. After the success of the first edition in 2018, the Michelangelo Foundation brings the excellence of Italian, European and even Japanese know-how back to the Cini Foundation, to rediscover the beauty of the work of the hands. Also with itineraries in the city 17 dedicated exhibition spaces dedicated to an aspect of excellent craftsmanship, from the goldsmithery to the mosaic, from the master paper makers to the luthiers, from the craftsmen that it will be possible to admire at their work table. Special guest of the second edition will be Japan, with a series of exhibitions dedicated to its “Living National Treasures”, an appellation that in the Land of the Rising Sun attributes to its best master craftsmen: they bring them to Homo Faber 2020 objects present with ancient techniques , from lacquer to dyeing fabrics. Fashion will also have a special space: the most modern side of craftsmanship will be revealed in a “capsule collection” of sustainable clothes for men and women designed in Italy and made in one hand in the United Kingdom, created by a group of Italian students from design in collaboration with the best British artisan talents.

The new classicism, which is the clearest message from Milan’s fashion week, sounded like a hymn to the boy instead of a call to order. The collections of a nostalgic return to school are increasingly emerging in his collections. .The invitation, written in a round and uncertain handwriting, speaks of “fifth birthday raves”; the collection notes are entrusted to the folded protocol sheet, like the old topics in the classroom. On the catwalk, new accessories of desire, among Liberty’s little flower bags and Richard Hell’s T-shirts, there are tin bags like biscuit boxes, and ox-eye sandals put on with big socks, because after all it’s winter collection. And then there are the clothes: skimpy, tight, sexless and re-proportioned, with a vague taste of the seventies – flared trousers, perhaps in silver leather, blazer with saddle shoulders – and that air of adult classics, adapted to the wardrobe puerile to be worn again by fashionable adults. A very twisted carpatura, of those in which Alessandro Michele excels. The intent, not at all hidden, is to launch a frontal, almost punk, attack on the codes of normative masculinity. A certain “guccificazione”, of cast and look, is evident from Marco De Vincenzo in Magliano, who in fashion is signed with only the surname, he does not have thirty years but is nostalgic for that magma that were the seventies / eighties, everywhere in Europe. He parades in a shady gambling den in Porta Genova, between billiards and low lights, composing a mosaic of gangsters who is sartorially stimulating, but at times costumistic.

Pitti Uomo is the event in which the outlines of men’s fashion are outlined year after year. The beginnings of streetstyle as an obsession were seen right in the streets of Florence, just as today the taste of a classic and elegant style is rediscovered in the edition number 97 of Pitti Uomo, the first of 2020. Trying to guess trends starting from brand proposals for the autumn winter 2020 2021 we seem to see a novelty: a reversal of course, a return to the origin, an implosion of design towards its pulsating core made of double-breasted suits and khaki-colored knitwear. The impression one gets is that of a renewal: tradition exudes from the slits of the Renaissance buildings to convey hi-tech fabrics and new manufacturing techniques into an alchemical pewter. The common denominator of this stylistic equation is absolute attention to the material: quality is not preferred, it is the only possible alternative. And they have always known it at Pitti Uomo. Here are the main trends and the most interesting things seen at Pitti Uomo 2020 just ended. An absolute novelty for menswear is the almost absolute abandonment of dark and cardinal shades such as black and blue, which give way to the more wearable and casual softness of autumn colors. Gray, khaki, sand, military green and ocher intertwine in the Cruciani and Brooksfield knitwear, becoming red and tangerine mottled dove-gray in the Mezulic ready-to-wear.

La trasformista della musica, Lady Gaga, l’artista dalle mille maschere, è stata richiamata per il ruolo più complesso che abbia mai dovuto interpretare. «Sii Patrizia Reggiani», le avrebbe chiesto Ridley Scott, deciso a portare al cinema l’omicidio di Maurizio Gucci basato sul libro “The House of Gucci”. Il film racconterà l’intrigo dell’omicidio dello stilista che fondò l’omonima casa di moda, che venne ucciso da tre colpi di pistola all’età di 45 anni, nel marzo del 95, nel suo ufficio a Milano. La mandante venne individuata nella ex moglie, Patrizia Reggiani, soprannominata dalla stampa «la vedova nera», condannata a 18 anni di reclusione.
Una nuova sfida per Gaga, quindi, che ingolosita dalla possibilità di un’ennesima metamorfosi, avrebbe detto sì!